Kumano Kodo Nakahechi Pilgrimage Trail: Ukegawa to Koguchi (Kogumotori-goe)

The Kumano Kodo pilgrimage network offers hikers a unique opportunity to experience Japan's rich history and natural landscapes. Within the popular Nakahechi route, the Kogumotori-goe section connects the Hongu area to the secluded settlement of Koguchi. This guide provides a factual, detailed overview of the Kogumotori-goe trail from Ukegawa to Koguchi. You will learn the exact distances and elevation changes, discover the major landmarks along the route, and find practical information for navigating accommodations and transport in Koguchi Village.

hiker on kumano kodo (Photo Credit: makieni)

Total Distance: Approximately 13 kilometres (8 miles)
Total Elevation Gain: Approximately 670 metres (2,200 feet)
Estimated Time: 4-6 hours

Onlyluxe Travel arranges luggage transfer and walkers can enjoy a pack free walking. Self guided or private guided tours are available. Discover our collection of Kumano Kodo Walking Holidays.

Trail Overview

The Kogumotori-goe is a mountain pass that demands a moderate to high level of fitness. While it is considered the slightly less strenuous of the two major "Kumotori" climbs on the Nakahechi route, it still requires sustained physical effort. The route features significant elevation changes. You will experience a total elevation gain of approximately 670 metres (2200 ft) as you ascend through the forested ridges. Following the peak, the trail involves a sharp descent, resulting in a total elevation loss of approximately 690 metres (2260 ft).

Because the trail runs entirely through forested mountains, there are no restaurants, cafes, or vending machines along the path. Hikers must purchase and pack their lunch, snacks, and plenty of drinking water before beginning the trek.

Starting the Trek at the Ukegawa Trailhead

Most hikers tackle this section by walking south from the Hongu area towards Koguchi. The official trailhead is located in Ukegawa, a small settlement positioned where the Oto River merges with the larger Kumano-gawa River along Route 168.

You can easily reach the Ukegawa trailhead by taking a short public bus ride from nearby hot spring areas such as Yunomine Onsen, Kawayu Onsen, or Wataze Onsen. If you have not yet purchased provisions for the day, the Yamazaki Shop near the Ukegawa bus stop is your final opportunity to buy food and drinks before entering the forest.

The trail begins just past a small cluster of residential houses, quickly transitioning into stands of native cypress and cedar trees. From here, the path begins its gradual and continuous upward climb.

Key Landmarks on the Kogumotori-goe

These locations serve as excellent rest stops and offer context regarding the historical significance of the pilgrimage.

The Hyakken-gura Lookout: Following the long initial ascent from Ukegawa, you will reach the Hyakken-gura lookout. This clearing is widely considered one of the most spectacular vantage points on the entire Nakahechi route. The lookout provides an unobstructed, panoramic view of the "3600 peaks of Kumano." Pilgrims have stopped at this exact spot for over a millennium to observe the sacred, rolling mountains. It is a highly recommended location to take a rest after the demanding climb. Just past the lookout, you will find a forestry road junction equipped with public toilet facilities.

Sakura-jaya Teahouse Remains: Continuing along the mountain ridge from Hyakken-gura, the trail rises and falls gently until you arrive at the remains of the Sakura-jaya teahouse. In previous centuries, this site operated as a functioning teahouse where travellers could rest and recover. Today, the building is gone, but the flat clearing and the scenic overlook remain. Because of the ample space and the expansive views of the valley below, this is the most practical and popular location for hikers to stop and eat their packed lunches.

kumano kodo in wakayama japan (Photo Credit: makieni)

Navigating the Cobblestone Steps

After leaving the Sakura-jaya teahouse remains, the physical dynamic of the trail changes entirely. The path descends rapidly into the valley toward Koguchi. Near the base of this steep slope, you will encounter sections of historic cobblestone steps.

While these stones are visually striking and represent the ancient construction of the Kumano Kodo, they require extreme caution. The cobblestones are heavily covered in moss and become exceptionally slippery, particularly during or after rainfall. Use trekking poles if you have them, and step carefully to avoid injury. As you navigate this section, you may also spot small wooden prayer tablets left by Yamabushi mountain ascetics at the base of the slope.

Arriving in Koguchi Village

The descent concludes near the Akagi-gawa River, marking your arrival in the Koguchi area. After crossing the Kowase Bridge, a one-kilometre walk brings you into the centre of Koguchi Village. This small, isolated community is nestled directly between the Hongu and Nachi regions, serving as a critical waypoint for those continuing southward on the Ogumotori-goe route the following day.

Accommodation and Transport Options: Because Koguchi is a very small settlement, infrastructure and services are limited. The primary accommodation option is the Koguchi Shizen-no-Ie, a local inn converted from a former junior high school, alongside a nearby campground. Rooms here book out months in advance, so early reservations are mandatory. If you cannot secure lodging within Koguchi, you will need to utilise the local bus network. You can catch a bus from Koguchi back to Shingu or the Hongu area to stay in a hotel or guesthouse for the night. You can then take the earliest morning bus back to Koguchi the next day to resume your hike. Note that travelling by bus from Koguchi often requires a transfer at the Kanmaru bus stop, so it is highly recommended to check current timetables before your arrival.

Ready to start your journey? Browse our range of Kumano Kodo Walking tours to find the ideal experience for your interests and schedule. For a fully bespoke Kumano Kodo Walk, Bike and Seaside Onsen Retreat holiday, or to arrange a family adventure tailored to your needs, contact us at info@onlyluxe.com.au. Our travel specialists are here to help you plan an unforgettable visit to the Kumano Kodo.

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