Kumano Kodo Nakahechi Pilgrimage Trail: Koguchi to Kumano Nachi Taisha (Ogumotori-goe)

The Kumano Kodo pilgrimage network presents hikers with a profound physical and historical journey through Japan's Kii Peninsula. For those traversing the Nakahechi route, the Ogumotori-goe section connects the small settlement of Koguchi with the sacred mountaintop sanctuary of Kumano Nachi Taisha. This specific trail is widely regarded as one of the most demanding sections of the entire pilgrimage. This guide provides a comprehensive and factual overview of the Ogumotori-goe trail from Koguchi to Nachisan. You will learn about the course data, key geographical landmarks, the historical sites at the trail's conclusion, and practical information for extending your stay in the coastal onsen town of Kii-Katsuura.

 

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old stone statue in kumano kodo (Photo Credit: makieni)

 

 

Total Distance: Approximately 14 kilometres (8.5 miles)
Total Elevation Gain: Approximately 1260 metres (4,150 feet)
Estimated Time: 7-9 hours

 

Onlyluxe Travel arranges luggage transfer and walkers can enjoy a pack free walking. Self guided or private guided tours are available. Discover our collection of Kumano Kodo Walking Holidays.

 

 

Trail Overview

The Ogumotori-goe is a challenging mountain pass that requires a high level of physical fitness and stamina. The trail involves a significant climb and descent over three distinct passes, situated almost entirely within dense, forested mountains.

 

The hike covers a total distance of 14 kilometres (8.5 miles). Depending on your walking pace and resting frequency, you should allocate between 7-9 hours to complete the journey. The route demands sustained exertion, featuring a total elevation gain of approximately 1260 metres (4150 ft). Following the strenuous ascents, hikers face a steep and continuous downhill section, resulting in a total elevation loss of roughly 930 metres (3050 ft).

 

Because the path traverses remote wilderness, there are no restaurants, cafes, or shops along the trail. Hikers must purchase and pack sufficient food, snacks, and drinking water before departing Koguchi.

 

 

Key Landmarks on the Ogumotori-goe

The trail features several prominent geographical and historical markers. These locations offer practical resting points and provide insight into the rich heritage of the Kumano Kodo.

 

• Ascending Dogiri-zaka: The trek begins at the southern end of Koguchi Village, quickly ascending into the forest. The initial section of the trail is notoriously steep and is historically known as Dogiri-zaka, which translates directly to "Body-breaking Slope." During this segment, the trail gains 800 metres of elevation over a distance of just 5 kilometres. Hikers must take their time and pace themselves carefully. As you climb, you will notice the remnants of ancient stone walls, which once supported terraced rice paddies in previous centuries.

 

• The Mythical Waroda-ishi Rock: As you progress up the mountain, you will encounter the Waroda-ishi rock. The name translates to "round-shaped cushion rock." The surface of this large stone features carved Sanskrit characters. According to local mythology, this site is where the Kumano deities gather to sit, meet, and drink tea. It serves as an interesting historical marker and a brief resting point before continuing the ascent toward the Echizen-toge Pass.

 

• Resting at Jizo-jaya and Funami-toge Pass: At approximately the 6.2-kilometre mark, you will reach the remains of the Jizo-jaya teahouse. This clearing is highly recommended as a lunch stop. It provides a covered seating area and public toilet facilities, making it the most practical location to rest and recover. Further along the trail, after passing through an area known as the "Abode of the Dead," you will climb to the Funami-toge Pass. On a clear day, the remains of the Funami-jaya teahouse offer brilliant, sweeping views of the Pacific Ocean and the coastal fishing villages below. From this point, the trail begins its long, 4-kilometre descent via stone staircases toward the Nachisan area.

 

 

Pagoda of Seigantoji and Nachi no Taki waterfall (Photo Credit: Sean Pavone)

 

 

Arriving at the Nachisan Sanctuary

The arduous descent concludes at Nachisan, a sacred mountaintop sanctuary that has been a focal point of nature worship since the 4th century. The area provides a striking visual reward for completing the demanding Ogumotori-goe trail.

 

Kumano Nachi Taisha and Seiganto-ji Temple: Nachisan is home to the Kumano Nachi Taisha, one of the three grand shrines of the Kumano region. The shrine complex features brilliant vermilion architecture set against the backdrop of the primordial forest. Directly adjacent to the shrine sits the Seiganto-ji Temple. This proximity perfectly illustrates the historical blending of Shinto and Buddhist practices in Japan. The temple's three-story pagoda is one of the most iconic and frequently photographed structures in the region.

 

The Sacred Nachi Falls: A short walk from the main shrine complex brings you to the base of Nachi Falls. Plunging 133 metres, it is the highest single-drop waterfall in Japan. The waterfall itself is venerated as a deity, and its consistent, powerful flow provides a spectacular and refreshing conclusion to your hike.

 

 

Kii-Katsuura Nachikatsuura Town

 

 

Onward to the Coastal Town of Kii-Katsuura

After exploring Nachisan, many hikers choose to travel to Kii-Katsuura to rest for the night. This scenic coastal town in Wakayama Prefecture is easily accessible via a 25-minute local bus ride from the Nachisan bus stop.

 

Japan's Largest Raw Tuna Market: Kii-Katsuura is famous for its fishing industry and has the largest catch of fresh, raw tuna in Japan. The local fishermen use traditional longline fishing methods to ensure sustainability. The town's fish market is a central hub where you can watch the early morning tuna auctions from a special observation deck. Next to the auction area is the Nigiwai Market, where visitors can eat freshly caught tuna at various shops and restaurants.

 

Whale Watching: For nature enthusiasts, Nachi-Katsuura offers excellent whale and dolphin watching opportunities from March to September. During this time, you can join a boat tour and head into the Pacific Ocean to see sperm whales and rorquals. These tours provide a unique opportunity to observe these large marine mammals in their natural habitat.

 

The Onsen Experience: Kii-Katsuura is also known for its numerous onsen (natural hot springs), having the most in Wakayama Prefecture. Notable onsen experiences include Hotel Urashima's Bokido Cave Bath, located inside a natural grotto with views of the ocean. Another option is Nakanoshima Ryokan, a hotel on a private island with open-air rotenburo baths overlooking the sea. For a more exclusive stay, consider Kumano-bettei Nakanoshima.

 

 

Private Island Luxury at Kumano-bettei Nakanoshima

Kii-Katsuura Sign to the Tourist Pier to board ferry to Kumano-Bettei Nakanoshima

 

Ferry to Kumano-Bettei Nakanoshima

 

Discover a sanctuary set apart from the world at Kumano-bettei Nakanoshima, situated on its own private island in the tranquil Katsuura Bay. Accessible only by a dedicated ferry, this exquisite hotel is a realm of unparalleled serenity.

 

Onsen Spa at Kumano-Bettei Nakanoshima

 

Kaiseki Dinner

 

Here, six natural hot spring sources feed spectacular open-air baths, offering uninterrupted vistas of the vast ocean. As dusk settles, indulge in a traditional multi-course Kaiseki dinner, a culinary masterpiece crafted from the finest local ingredients. Let this be the setting for your perfect conclusion to the Kumano Kodo.

 

Ready to start your journey? Browse our range of Kumano Kodo Walking tours to find the ideal experience for your interests and schedule. For a fully bespoke Kumano Kodo Walk, Bike and Seaside Onsen Retreat holiday, or to arrange a family adventure tailored to your needs, contact us at info@onlyluxe.com.au. Our travel specialists are here to help you plan an unforgettable visit to the Kumano Kodo.

 

 

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